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Parker Garcia
Parker Garcia

Vermicomposting Bin Buy

The worm composters below make vermicomposting a breeze - just add bedding (e.g., shredded cardboard, newspaper, etc), live compost worms, and food scraps, and then let nature run its course! We also include detailed information on caring for compost worms in all live compost worm orders.

vermicomposting bin buy

We're committed to creating an incredible customer experience, including a fast and easy order process, timely and easy to understand communication, and outstanding customer service. Have questions about an order or vermicomposting in general? Reach out at and we're happy to help!

Its likely that the environment is acidic. I came across an article about vermicomposting and that was one of the reasons wroms might try to leave the bin. Try adding more paper to the top and less acidic foods to the bin like crushed egg shells, veggies like potatoes or lettuce. Remember not to use printed paper other than news paper as the ink is also acidic in many cases. Im starting my first worm farm this weekend but this is some of the information I have come across in my research.

Vermicomposting is the use of worms as a composting method to produce vermicompost. Vermiculture is worm farming for the production of worms. In recent years, worm farming has been practiced on both a small and large scale with three complementary goals in mind: waste diversion, vermicomposting, and vermiculture.

Individuals interested in pursuing more information on vermicomposting or vermiculture, as well as worm and soil market issues, can contact an existing worm farm, soil blender, or organic waste processor to discuss the present and future possibilities of worm enterprises. Explore the rest of this site for more information on worms.

To be quite honest, this is how most people go about vermicomposting. They figure out what bin they want based on the space they have available, or how the bin looks, THEN wonder what quantity of composting worms to buy.

Want to give your food scraps and organic waste a new life? Worms can help with that. If you can get over the initial shock of keeping worms as pets, vermicomposting is an amazing way to repurpose waste and turn trash into nutrient-dense soil. Here's everything you need to know about getting started with the technique.

"One of the biggest advantages of vermicomposting is that worm compost often has a much higher nutrient content than traditional compost," adds Matt Eddleston, a gardener with over 20 years of experience and founder of Gardening Vibe.

The best types of worms for vermicomposting are red wigglers (Eisenia fetida) and redworms (Lumbricus rubellus). These two species make great worms for the compost bin because they prefer a compost environment to plain soil, and they are very easy to keep. Worms that feed on vegetable waste, compost, and organic bedding produce richer casting than those that feed on plain soil.

In vermicomposting, a smaller, shallow, dark bin with ventilation contains worms living in cool, moist bedding material. These worms eat the scraps that are added to the bin weekly and generate castings (a sanitized term for poop) within two to three months.

The materials needed to start a vermicomposting system are simple and inexpensive. All you will need are an earthworm bin, bedding, water, composting earthworms, and food scraps or any appropriate organic materials.

Composting Worms. It is important to use the type of earthworms that will thrive in a worm bin. There are more than 9,000 species of earthworms, and only 7 species have been identified as suitable for vermicomposting. Of those, only one species of earthworm is used for vermicomposting by most people worldwide: Eisenia fetida (common name: red wiggler). You need to start with at least one pound (about 1,000) of red wigglers to one square foot of surface area of the worm bin to have a chance of developing a sustainable system. Do not get the earthworms from a bait shop (you would need to buy 33 to 38 bait cups!) or your yard (how could you tell what species is Eisenia fetida?). Instead, buy them from a worm grower. Be sure to check around, as prices for earthworms vary significantly. When you acquire the red wigglers, gently place them on top of the bedding in the worm bin. The earthworms will immediately move underneath the bedding to avoid the light, but they need a few days to acclimate to their new home. If the red wigglers try to leave the bin, keep the bin in a bright area around the clock for a few days, while the earthworms get used to their new environment.

Method 3: Vertical Separation. Before you begin vermicomposting, either buy a manufactured stacking bin or make your own by purchasing two identical storage bins and drilling extra holes in the bottoms. Set one bin aside and vermicompost in the other bin for a few months. When the bedding in the bin fits snug against the bottom of the bin you set aside, simply fit the second bin inside the first one, and begin only feeding in the top bin for the next several months. Most of the earthworms will move up into the upper bin to eat, and eventually the lower bin will just contain vermicompost.

If you have a small area in your garage or basement you can easily start a vermicomposting bin. Vermicompost is the process of composting using worms to create a vermicast (worm manure). The castings left over from the vermicompost contain less contaminants and higher levels of beneficial nutrients than regular compost.

These vermicomposting bins do not take up a lot of space and do not have a foul smell. There are multiple ways of building them on the Internet or you can purchase one. You can even purchase the worms on the Internet.

Like thermophilic composting, which uses heat-loving bacteria to break down biological waste, vermicomposting is a great way to recycle your old table scraps into usable fertilizer. While thermophilic composting is slightly more sterile, the advantage to vermicomposting is that it is more stable than thermophilic composting, and the product is slightly more potent.

You can also invest a little more preparation to ease the harvesting process: before you begin vermicomposting, you can buy two identical bins and drill holes in the bottom of both bins. Vermicompost in one of the bins for two or three months, and then place the other bin on top of the bedding in the first. Add food to only the top bin; eventually, the worms will migrate to the top bin and you can harvest castings from the bottom bin (you can also buy a manufactured stacking bin designed for this purpose).

Vermicompost (vermi-compost) is the product of the decomposition process using various species of worms, usually red wigglers, white worms, and other earthworms, to create a mixture of decomposing vegetable or food waste, bedding materials, and vermicast. This process is called vermicomposting, with the rearing of worms for this purpose is called vermiculture.

Vermicast (also called worm castings,[a] worm humus, worm poop, worm manure, or worm faeces) is the end-product of the breakdown of organic matter by earthworms.[1] These excreta have been shown to contain reduced levels of contaminants and a higher saturation of nutrients than the organic materials before vermicomposting.[2]

The earthworm species (or composting worms) most often used are red wigglers (Eisenia fetida or Eisenia andrei), though European nightcrawlers (Eisenia hortensis, synonym Dendrobaena veneta) and red earthworm (Lumbricus rubellus) could also be used.[7] Red wigglers are recommended by most vermicomposting experts, as they have some of the best appetites and breed very quickly. Users refer to European nightcrawlers by a variety of other names, including dendrobaenas, dendras, Dutch nightcrawlers, and Belgian nightcrawlers.

Large-scale vermicomposting is practiced in Canada, Italy, Japan, India, Malaysia, the Philippines, and the United States.[15] The vermicompost may be used for farming, landscaping, to create compost tea, or for sale. Some of these operations produce worms for bait and/or home vermicomposting.

There are two main methods of large-scale vermicomposting, windrow and raised bed. Some systems use a windrow, which consists of bedding materials for the earthworms to live in and acts as a large bin; organic material is added to it. Although the windrow has no physical barriers to prevent worms from escaping, in theory they should not, due to an abundance of organic matter for them to feed on. Often windrows are used on a concrete surface to prevent predators from gaining access to the worm population.

The second type of large-scale vermicomposting system is the raised bed or flow-through system. Here the worms are fed an inch of "worm chow" across the top of the bed, and an inch of castings are harvested from below by pulling a breaker bar across the large mesh screen which forms the base of the bed.

For vermicomposting at home, a large variety of bins are commercially available, or a variety of adapted containers may be used. They may be made of old plastic containers, wood, Styrofoam, or metal containers. The design of a small bin usually depends on where an individual wishes to store the bin and how they wish to feed the worms.

Small-scale vermicomposting is well-suited to turn kitchen waste into high-quality soil amendments, where space is limited. Worms can decompose organic matter without the additional human physical effort (turning the bin) that bin composting requires.

There may be differences in vermicomposting method depending on the climate.[24] It is necessary to monitor the temperatures of large-scale bin systems (which can have high heat-retentive properties), as the raw materials or feedstocks used can compost, heating up the worm bins as they decay and killing the worms.

There are few food wastes that vermicomposting cannot compost, although meat waste and dairy products are likely to putrefy, and in outdoor bins can attract vermin. Green waste should be added in moderation to avoid heating the bin. 041b061a72




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